The NV Brut Tradition Grand Cru is rich and ample in the glass, with the natural breadth of Pinot very much on display. The current release is based on 2016, with reserve wines from 2015 and 2014, a blend that works so well in exalting Pinot as expressed in Aÿ, where the wines are naturally generous. Plum, red cherry, spice and cedar accents all flesh out with a bit of time in the glass. A dollop of Chardonnay (10%) adds a lovely kick of freshness to balance things out. Once again, the Gatinois Brut Tradition offers exceptional quality for the money.