In the last decade, it’s become common to see celebrated winemakers launch projects in far-flung corners of the wine world. But twenty-five years ago, such ventures were still rare. So, when the legendary Egon Müller began making wine at a 225-year-old château and hotel in Slovakia, it raised eyebrows. Since 2001, working alongside full-time chef de cave Miroslav Petrech, Egon has been producing brilliant whites at Château Belá—Riesling foremost among them, along with Grüner Veltliner and the local variety Breslava. These are wines of precision and purity, typically fermented dry, with clarity of fruit and a structure that places them confidently alongside the greatest wines of Austria and Alsace.
Gruner Veltliner was planted at Chateau Bela in 1987 and it's no surprise that it has been so successful. The loess soils at Bela are similar to those of the Kamptal in Austria, famous for some of the wine world's more spectacular Gruners. In the relatively cool 2021 vintage, this shows a classic profile, a nose full of delicate florals, stone fruit, with a peppery honeydew melon finish.
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