Bodegas Rafael Palacios 'Sorte Antiga' Valdeorras Godello 2020
At the top level are Rafa’s single parcel wines, or Sortes Unicas, which are produced in miniscule quantities. Sorte Antigais from a bush pruned vineyard planted in 1920. It has a very old clonal selection of vines that produce very small tight berries. It faces north and is at 680 meters in elevation. The vineyard is farmed biodynamically, and Palacios recounts that it took a full 10 years to fully benefit from these fastidious farming practices. Here, the winemaking is done according to the local tradition with fermentation on the skins in large open vats for about a month and then aging in used oak barrels. The wine is reminiscent of the old brisados(aKa Orange Wine), but with much more elegance and varietal character.