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Domaine Jacques-Frederic Mugnier Chambolle Musigny 2017

$232.00

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Chambolle-Musigny Village has only gained in depth and complexity since I last tasted it unwinding in the glass with aromas of raspberries cherries orange rind dried flowers forest floor and grilled squab. On the palate it's medium to full-bodied supple and velvety with beautifully refined tannins lively acids and a long precise finish. Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier and his team began the harvest on August 28 with the Bonnes-Mares and concluded with the Clos de la Maréchale—one of the sites most impacted by hail this year—on September 8. Due for bottling in June-July 2020 this is once again a beautiful set of wines that exemplify even in this warm vintage the elegance and grace that is this domaine's calling card. The one outlier is the Clos de la Maréchale which I suspect will always be marked by the traumatic growing season. But across the range these are serious wines that are more muscular and overtly structured than the sappier supple and infinitely charming 2017 vintage at this address (which I revisited from bottle) and they will require patience. On the subject of patience as readers will know Mugnier has been holding back the release of his Musigny and he told me that he intends to allocate the 2013 vintage this year. Even if it's still far from mature it's a noble gesture in a world where vins de garde are increasingly treated like vins de soif and I applaud him for 

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