Domaine Michel Niellon 'Les Champgains' 1er Cru Chassagne-Montrachet 2020
The 2020 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Champs Gain unwinds in the glass with aromas of pear, fresh bread, confit citrus and toasted almonds. Medium to full-bodied, bright and chalky, with a charming core of fruit, lively acids and a saline finish, it's a fine effort. While Michel Coutoux and his daughter Marlène bemoan the impact of climatic extremes on their vineyards—much of the replantings of the 1980s and 1990s, which ought to be entering their prime, will have to be replaced in the near future due to the degeneration of the 161-49 rootstock—the wines of Domaine Michel Niellon themselves remain remarkably unmarked by recent dry, warm vintages. The 2020s are no exception: lively, beautifully balanced and even comparatively tightly wound after their bottling before harvest 2021, they continue a strong recent run at this estate.