Domaine Michel Niellon 'Les Vergers' 1er Cru Chassagne Montrachet 2020

Niellon's 2020 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Vergers unwinds in the glass with aromas of citrus zest, crisp green apple, white flowers, fresh bread and toasted nuts. Medium to full-bodied, elegantly textural and incisive, with a pretty core of fruit, racy acids and a chalky, saline finish, it's a fine effort. While Michel Coutoux and his daughter Marlène bemoan the impact of climatic extremes on their vineyards—much of the replantings of the 1980s and 1990s, which ought to be entering their prime, will have to be replaced in the near future due to the degeneration of the 161-49 rootstock—the wines of Domaine Michel Niellon themselves remain remarkably unmarked by recent dry, warm vintages. The 2020s are no exception: lively, beautifully balanced and even comparatively tightly wound after their bottling before harvest 2021, they continue a strong recent run at this estate. As ever, bottling is under natural cork. 

Here too there is a smoky whiff suffusing the more citrus-infused aromas of white fleshed fruit that display a floral top note. The rich and very generously proportioned middle weight flavors also possess first-rate density and volume while offering solid length on the clean finale that is supported by a moderately firm lemon-tinged acid spine. This too should drink well young.