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Philippe Jouan Clos-Saint-Denis Grand Cru 2020


The domaine is run by Philippe who has taken over from his father Henri. Henri is a contemporary, friend, and neighbor to Jacky Truchot, and there is a commonality to their wines. With many of the same vineyards sources and approaches in the winery. The Jouan wines could be described as slightly coarser in comparison, which is like comparing silk and satin and calling the satin rough. Philippe has continued the winemaking practices of his father. The domaine, located in Morey-St.-Denis, is tiny. Farming less than four hectares in the Cotes de Nuits, and selling most of his grapes, they do not produce much. The winemaking is all about bringing their old vines to prominence. 100% destemming, gentle extractions, cool fermentations, and minimal influence of new wood across the range. As simplistic as it sounds these wines taste how you want them to taste. They are expressive of their origin, giving of fruit and, texturally lush and elegant, but balanced with tension, and with a subtle earthiness and minerality we crave.

The single grand cru comes from the historic Clos St. Denis, specifically two miniscule holdings both sited in the Maison Brûlée section of the vineyard.  The vines are 100 years old, with absurdly low yields and predictably miserly production. The Clos Saint Denis is like the Clos Sorbé cranked up. The balance of concentrated power and structured vibrancy is what makes something like this truly deserving of the moniker Grand Cru!

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