From a rented parcel on the hillside between the Castelinaldo and Vezza d’Alba, Luisin’s Roero Arneis “Ave” is raised in steel on its fine lees and bottled after one year with a small amount of sulfur dioxide. Rich but controlled, it offers variety-typical notes of crunchy apricot and anise, with a beam of rippling acidity keeping it dynamic and brisk, and its overall sense of carefully rendered precision is of a piece with its red stablemates.